In the 1700s, breeches were a regular part of a mens suit of clothes. But, constructing them today can seem like one of the most daunting parts in a historical sewing project! They are complex in patterning, fitting, and construction. And the variations of styles can seem endless! But rather than getting tangled up in pocket options, let’s take a look at some of the universal elements to all pairs of breeches.
Important Tips:
1. Make a mock-up. But don’t worry about fitting it “perfectly”. Odds are your fabric will have different stretch. So leave some extra seam allowance on the inseams for safety!
2. Don’t add seam allowance to your pattern. Draw the shape on the fabric and add it on there. You need your stitching lines.
3. BASTE EVERYTHING. Don’t expect pins to hold things smoothly or safely. They are temporary. Basting will keep things secure and flat for as long as you need. You’ll thank yourself when you don’t accidentally stab your hand or have an important pin fall out half way through the project.
4. Reinforce. Don’t expect your one layer of fabric to do all the work. Nor should you just line the entire thing to strengthen. Interfacings, linings, and extra pieces should be applied with thought so as to be successful and reduce bulk. We aren’t machine bag-lining this thing for a reason.
5. Stitching should show! We want to see your work! And it serves to help reinforce your garments weak points.
6. Leave enough space in your clothing that you can move. This is especially apparent in breeches and trousers. You need to be able to sit and squat down.
7. First project at this level? Use wool. It is forgiving and has enough natural stretch and give that you won’t have to obsess. It’s also fairly strong (so long as you leave enough allowance for fraying). Can’t do wool due to allergies? Try a cotton twill or denim (yes, denim. Des Nîmes- From Nîmes). I chose a woven silk, rather than a taffeta, to give myself some ease.
8. Really scared? Make a pair of underbreeches first! They’re out of a plain linen and have fewer complicated elements, but you can essentially make a useable mock up this way! They’re great for warmth, wool allergies, or keeping your outer breeches clean.
Burnley & Trowbridge workshops: https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/pages/historic-fashion-workshop-series
(they’re also where all of the fabric, thread, button moulds, and buckles came from for this project)
Socials
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/silk_and_buckram/
Tiktok: https://www.tiktok.com/@cloche_call
Fashion Plate: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/BI-1959-529-46
Sailor: https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_2010-7081-3208
Suit: https://collections.lacma.org/node/214563
Kneeband: https://www.meg-andrews.com/item-details/Knitted-Breeches/8786
Music via Epidemic Sound (https://www.epidemicsound.com)
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